Sunday, 26 April 2020

Telecoms paranoia, 5G vs Covid-19 (and phones turning into human heads)

The latest conspiracy theories around 5G and Coronavirus come as no surprise to those working in telecoms. It is an area dogged by amateur theorists and pseudo-scientists. From the early days of the telephone where it was claimed the new invention would be used to "talk to hell..." other issues have included spying, phantom phone calls, telephones turning into heads, garden gnomes building up big phone bills and the Renault Clio being the ‘only car in the world’ for those worried about radiation. The only answer for mobile operators is to develop matter transfer via broadband…
I’ve been reading about the association of 5G with Coronavirus, seeing posts about it on Facebook by friends confused about this bizarre phenomenon and reading ‘reasoned’ tweets from those convinced that they will be catching the Miley Cyrus via mobile masts. But through a career in telecoms customer service and PR, dealing with some of the UK’s most dedicated conspiracy theorists, I felt a little superior having been there many, many times before.

In 1980 I joined British Telecom, now BT, as a trainee telephone exchange engineer. However, wiring up equipment with only the company of men many years older than me was not the career I was looking for. So when I saw an advert for a role in customer service, dealing with ‘high-level’ complaints from customers whose technical, accounts and ‘other’ issues had not been fixed by the relevant departments, I applied.
At the interview I was warned that it was a role where I would be shouted and threatened with my life on a daily basis, it was so bad that only two years in the job was recommended. But I got the job and was sent on a course to learn how to navigate my way around the labyrinthian company, which comprised a quarter of a million people in 1983. I learnt how to deal with technical issues that occurred in exchanges, in streets and business and residential premises and how to resolve billing problems.
However, what we weren’t taught about was the ‘other’ issues; from my stats over 70% of the issues we dealt with were ‘other’. And other issues rarely included anything that was down to British Telecom: nuisance calls (“Are you wearing any knickers?” and pre-cyberbullying stuff), being ‘spied on’ via phone, phantom phone calls, phones turning into human heads, cordless ‘phonewaves’ causing psoriasis, garden gnomes building up huge phone bills and advice sought from complaint handlers like me on how to complain to other companies.
Being spied on through the telephone was bread and butter. We even had a standard response along the lines of: “Are you now or have you ever been a member of either Her majesty’s or other nations’ secret or special services?” Evidence of being spied upon was usually around ‘clicks’ on the line or other noises, all of which could be explained by the shocking state of wiring and joints in the ground and rain in some places at that time, or electro-mechanical exchanges which were phased out long after steam trains had disappeared from our railways. One customer told me had actually found the bugs on his line. I asked him to bring them in and show them to me and the head of engineering.
“I’m a councillor for the bereaved,” he told us as he removed the ‘bugs’ from his pocket. “My conversations must remain private.”
“What does your telephone line look like now?” asked the head of engineering.
“it’s sagging a bit…”
“That’s not surprising, those are the clips that hold it up,” responded the engineer, leaving the room as he shot me a “Don’t ever waste my time with your lunatics again,” look.
Other people ‘under surveillance’ via the phone included a lady whose extra evidence was planes circling over south-east London as they stacked for Heathrow.
“They tilt over because everyone's on one side looking into my house,” she claimed.
And the scout hut over the road was where people met to discuss her. They wore uniforms so it was definitely ‘government-sponsored’.
One elderly lady called after she was advised she was about to be cut off for non-payment. Apparently her garden gnomes were using her phone all the time and “I’m sure as hell not going to pay their bills,” she told me. Accounts referred her to me as they had no time for this sort of thing, apparently I did.
“Do you think you could be imagining this?” I asked.
“Do you think I’m mad?!” she responded. “And they take all the hot water, ask the police!”
So I did. I called Catford police station.
“Ah yes,” was the response. “We’ve a specialist officer who deals with her.”
He called me back and told me all about her. She was quite lovely and was looked after by carers, family and Help the Aged volunteers so she had an independent life. He said the ‘gnome thing’ was sensitively managed: “I go round and bollock them every now and again. Only I can do it as I have a beard. But it keeps her happy for a while. I’ll let the family know there’s a billing issue.”
After all the warnings about physical threats, which I did receive (and these were the customers who almost always bothered to call back to say thank you: “Sorry about what I said before about breaking your legs…”) the only call that ever kept me awake was the lady who told me that when she gets a call her phone turns into a human head. I told her that I wasn’t qualified to deal with matters like this.
“You might not understand this, but your soul does,” she responded enigmatically. Her voice haunted me for days and I woke at night several times with it in my head.
Regulars included ‘dreamers’, who insisted their phones rang all through the night. With these we put a check on their lines to test for incoming calls and always found that their phones never rang at night. Most took this well and once their brains knew it was a dream they could sleep through. Some resented the ‘invasion of privacy’ but were unable to explain what privacy we had invaded.
It was at this time that telecoms paranoia was joined by accusations of health issues. Cordless phones had been launched and despite them being massive and ceasing to work ever again after thunderstorms they were very popular. But not so popular with some neighbours.
“My daughter’s had psoriasis ever since next door got a cordless phone,” I was told by one person. This was new territory then, and I wasn’t sure what to say other than that sounds ridiculous, which I wasn’t allowed to say. So I said I’d contact our laboratories and see what they had to say.
“That sounds ridiculous,” said the boffins.
In the meantime I got a call from the neighbour, who said her neighbour had told her I had ‘forbidden’ her to use her cordless phone. I assured her that I hadn't and contacted the original caller to say that not only did she or I not have the right to tell anyone not to use a perfectly legal device, it was scientific opinion that a cordless phone was not the cause of her daughter’s psoriasis. I suggested she got some proper medical opinion from her GP and discussed with her what my friends with this condition did, and this did not include distancing themselves from cordless phones.
After some other roles I moved into PR, working with journalists. This went so well that I left my job and set up my own PR agency. Here I took on the PR for a business which had developed ‘mini-masts’, amongst other technology. These were devices that could be attached to lamp-posts and telegraph poles to boost the mobile signal in areas where this was a problem.
A mini-mast had the equivalent power of around four mobile phones and is always, because it was placed on street furniture, several metres from premises. Yet one tabloid took up the cases of people, for example, who were literally living in houses wallpapered in Bacofoil because they had singled out mobile phone signals as carcinogenic. It carried articles every few days for some weeks about what could happen to your child (including the ones with mobile phones) if mini-masts were introduced. It became so bad that despite my efforts and those of a crisis PR agency the project was shelved.
That same tabloid and, in some cases, even the same journalist, then took up the case of people who had a poor mobile phone signal. Advice comprised: “Get a signal booster, there are third-party gadgets called signal boosters that pick up weak signals and produce a full powered signal indoors,” and: “However, while these are available in the US , they are currently illegal in the UK.”
What intrigued me was the fixation on telecoms Electromotive force (EMF). Why not TVs? Or laptops? These are ubiquitous, but perhaps too difficult to live without. At the time of the mini-mast venture the old cathode ray tube TVs were much in vogue and emitted much more radiation than current TVs, which still give off a little bit. But I’ve yet to hear anyone taking up the cudgel against them. Sure, there are the usual quack EMF shields that ‘scare the pants off them’ marketing can sell but aside from that, very little.
Later on in my PR career I worked alongside legal and safety experts in my return stint at the big telephone company. By this time Wi-Fi had arrived and brought with it the new wave of monomania, a word I picked up from legal colleagues who dealt with various cases including, again, being spied upon, mobile-phone signals and now Wi-Fi.
I took a call from a lady who told me that she would not use Wi-Fi because it is carcinogenic and wanted the right (here we go again) to stop her neighbour having a router.  She told me that her daughter was a lecturer at the University of Toulouse on EMF prevention. Of course I checked, there was no such person or course. But what really got me was this conversation:
“I’ve got the only car you can buy that doesn’t give off any EMF.”
“Which car is that?”
“A Renault Clio.”
“How is a Renault Clio is different to any other car?”
“I don’t know the technical detail but I told the man at the garage my concerns and he recommended the Clio as the only car that doesn’t give off EMF.”
Well hats off to that salesman for knowing his market. I did what any self-respecting PR person would do and asked her to write in outlining the issues in a proper letter, on paper, with a stamp on it. That usually works. However, I did get a letter, and very detailed it was too. I gave a standard response about the WHO saying there was ‘no evidence’ for Wi-Fi or mobile phones killing us. Though this is dangerous as WHO, quite rightly will not say EMF from these devices doesn’t cause cancer, but it would say the same about slippers or divan beds.
Incidentally, whilst in this job I worked with a colleague who came into work extraordinarily distressed one Monday. A neighbour had tried to get into her house to take her cordless phone as she said it was “Killing my children.” For me it was a trip down memory lane, back to the 80s.
“Wait until you tell her you’ve got a TV, a Wi-Fi router and a microwave,” I said. “Actually, tell her that when she gets rid of her TV, Wi-Fi and microwave, you’ll get rid of your cordless phone.” I’m not sure this advice was gratefully received by either party but sometimes I’m just at a loss for words on this stuff.
The latest nonsense around 5G is totally expected, by me anyway. But like the anti-vaxxer ‘campaign’ the sinister turn it is taking is scary. Burning down masts could prevent emergency call access and abuse of engineers could lead to tragedy, on either side if my experience of old colleagues was anything to go by. The Government is right to stop transmission of manipulative nonsense that is already leading to vandalism of vital equipment and violence, and the fact that it is doing it transparently is even better.
My suggestion as a PR professional (OK, I failed on mini-masts but I’ve upped my game and learned from that experience) to telecoms firms is this: pretend that you’re toying with matter transfer of people via broadband. That would present all sorts of ethical and medical issues for the dedicated conspiracy theorist to get their loosening teeth into. And in the meantime you could get up to 8g without anybody noticing. 

Thursday, 10 October 2019

The Kurds certainly helped these Brits in WW2



Dad, on the left, rampaging through Belgium, commandeering German equipment in-between sleeping with princesses


My ol' man was a terrible father but a great soldier. He went from Private to Lieutenant Colonel in WW2 and was commissioned at the request of King George VI and further promoted at the direct recommendation of Monty.

He was rescued by HMS Skipjack at Dunkirk, which was sunk the next day. He was disgusted at the leadership of the army at that time, which largely comprised ex-public schoolboys placed by their fathers, schools or starry-eyed generals despite lacking any aptitude for their roles. After Dunkirk there was a significant clear out of these people, which gave people like my ol' man a chance. He was at El Alamein and then D-Day, where he rampaged to Belgium.

He boasted loudly to me and my brother in  a Belgian restaurant in the 90s that a certain Belgian princess was an 'old slapper'. We remonstrated with him and he responded: "Even I slept with her..."

After he left the Army he refused an MBE. None of us believed the latter, but my daughter found the records online.

But the thing that impressed me the most was his story, which he has written down, and which I mean to translate into usable English, about Monty's request that he find a route into the USSR from North Africa for a possible retreat should Rommel push us back.

It is a fantastic story of getting a platoon of men through exotic middle-eastern places, and over geographical boundaries, eventually reaching and passing into the Soviet Union.

However, there was one major drawback. And it was pretty big. Nobody had told the Soviets. So when the ol' man pitched up to some Soviet army base expecting a warm welcome and pint of vodka, he and his men were immediately arrrested as German spies. Even this bloke from Hoxton couldn't get past the famous Soviet distrust of anybody, even each other.

He was invited into the local commandant's office to discuss the situation. But rather than a discussion, he found out at the end of the cosy chat that this was, in fact, the trial. The translator, who grew up in New York, told him him: "Jeez, I feel sorry for you guys, but at least it'll be quick." They were to be shot the next day.

He and his men were locked up with some Kurdish prisoners, who had been planning an escape. I don't know the detail of this until I make some real effort with the ol' man's manuscript but somehow the Kurds got themselves out, and my ol' man and his men, and they all made a break for the border.

One of the reasons I found my dad hard to deal with was his hypocritical racism. He was opposed to the UK accepting Ugandan Asians into the UK, for example, but made a fortune selling them refrigeration equipment they bought with Government and other grants, and made friends with many but criticised them being here behind their back, as so many British people did (and still do).

But if you said anything against the Kurds...

Thursday, 31 January 2019

Crime, punishment and hypocrisy - at Tottenham Hotspur


Last night I was asked to accompany a friend to Wembley to see his beloved Spurs, at Wembley as their house isn’t ready yet. I’ve been lucky enough to visit many grounds across the UK, but all of them feature ‘football fans’. Last night’s special subject amongst Spurs fans holding court over various sections was ‘Fernando Llorente and his contribution to Tottenham Hotspur’. It wouldn’t have taken Stephen Hawking to work out that Fernando was unpopular. He was described for 80 minutes as “useless” and a “c*nt”. Some of the more mathematically gifted worked out and argued over how much he was being paid per minute to besmirch the lily-white shirt with his Spanish body. Derision was also aimed at Spurs’ manager, who apparently had ‘no balls’, when there were two substitutions yet Fernie was left on.
And then he scored.
I’m not saying that football fans are fickle but the calculators were put away and every positive thing the heroic Fernando had ever achieved for Spurs was recounted lovingly. He could have married their daughters, and whilst waiting for the wedding he would have been invited round for Sunday afternoon intercourse with their wives whilst the husbands looked on and admired his technique.
And then poor old Fernando needed a rest. He knew that after he’d scored he could go down if a Watford player so much as gave him a sideways glance, and then stay there whilst waiting to be tucked up in a duvet by Spurs fans now concerned about what his ‘work rate’ had done to his geriatric 33-year old body. Contrast this with the reaction of the Spurs faithful who had demanded throughout that Watford’s keeper, Ben Foster, be executed for time-wasting each and every moment he got the ball.
The other observation is about fans of the same team fighting amongst themselves. In football crowds things are said that couldn’t be said elsewhere. They are not always ‘politically correct’ and thankfully most of outright racist comments have disappeared. And some of the things said are very funny.
But an incident I saw last night was funny in its abject hypocrisy. A man of about 70 stood up and laid into another, younger man. “Don’t you f*cking swear in front of my son!” he screamed. “You can f*ck off to another seat if you want to f*cking swear you c*nt!” The son looked on bemused; he was about 45, and looked as though he’d like a good swear himself. Eventually the stewards intervened and settled them down. But then it all erupted again and the protective, sweary father and sensitive son decided they would move to two of the other 70,000 seats available in the stadium.
The only other crowds I’ve been in that are as amusing as this are at the ballet, and possibly the rugby where you can drink with abandon and trade insults with opposing fans who won’t try to murder you in return. At baseball you can sleep and eat your own weight in burgers as the ‘sport’ is as dull as the audience. At cricket you can also get a*seholed but as it goes on for so bloody long you can leave and visit an art gallery during a game and not miss anything so drinking yourself into oblivion won’t waste any money spent on the ticket.
Who wants to take me to another game?

Friday, 29 April 2016

Get those nuts checked!

I was having a slash last night and I saw the advert below over the urinal. It took me back to a time when I behaved like even more of an idiot than I do now.









I knew I had a lump on the two veg. I knew it. But I couldn't face the embarrassment of having a doctor fiddling around with my tackle. It gnawed at me for months, especially as more publicity was being carried out around testicular cancer. I insisted that all the women close to me went and had their boobs manhandled, as it was vital anything untoward was caught early. Yet hid from them that I was such a Jessie that even though I knew I had a lump I was to prudish to have it seen to.



Anyway, I finally steeled myself after letting on to my girlfriend and letting her have a feel. In fact she made me go, I was still resistant.

At the time I was registered with Britain's rudest doctor. He only communicated with his receptionists through the medium of insults. He was just slightly better with patients. And he always had a box of Capstan Full Strength on his desk (he's dead now).







I told him about the lump and it was trousers down, pants off time.
"Jesus," he said. "I'm making you an appointment at Lewisham Hospital for today. Get down there and take your pyjamas with you."

I had never been so frightened in my life. And I refused.
"I haven't got any pyjamas," I said.
"It's your funeral," he replied.



I was genuinely terrified. But I did a deal with him and agreed an appointment in two days time at the Memorial Hospital at Shooters Hill with a "mate" of his. It was discussed in the same way as a builder might offer no VAT for cash.



So after much soul-searching I drove myself to the hospital as taking my own car meant I knew I had to drive myself home and wouldn't stay. Ridiculous.



I was called in to see Dr Capstan's chum and in an instant he had me up on a trolley, legs akimbo with his hands pulling my scrotum about as if it were a miniature bag of coal.

"Aha!" He exclaimed with too much delight, "Plenty of those walking the streets! Right, it's a benign cyst. I've got some students in and I want them to get an idea of what one of those feels like compared with something nasty."


Bloody hell! The relief! So I just said yes, as you would.


Then eight students turned up. Eight. Four girls, four boys. They literally formed an orderly queue and each had a feel. It was a bit awkward at first but by the sixth I was giving advice on where it was and would have given the cleaning staff a feel too had they popped in. I was impressed at how civilised, straight-faced and serious they were; eight students in their 20s.


So off they went, thanking me for eight quick fiddles, and I got dressed and got in my car. As I drove out of the hospital such was the relief I didn't see a zebra crossing. I screeched to a halt, half way across the zebra, as people were waiting to cross. Eight medical students to be precise, who all waved at me using the eight hands that had been wrapped around my testicles minutes earlier. As I drove off I saw them collapse into fits of giggles, which made me do the same!


So, if you're worried, your visit cannot be any more embarrassing than mine. So get them checked, or you'll be hearing from me...









Thursday, 26 November 2015

India!

"I took her to see India!"

"Really major?"

"yes, at The Oval!"

India always seemed to me like a place that I should go, and not just because I like curry. It's always had an appeal and, strangely, the exchange above from Fawlty Towers consolidated that, especially as I can't stand cricket so was unlikely to visit The Oval. My research into visiting actual India showed me that navigating around the place was like a Crystal Maze IQ challenge so I decided to go on a tour with Great Railway Journeys, who took care of all of that for me.

One thing I love about going overseas is that despite how much you read, how much you ask people who've been there and how much you quiz the natives residing or visiting the UK, you always see things no-one ever mentioned.

No-one ever mentioned that after people and cows, dogs appear to form the third largest proportion of the population of India. And that all of them seemed to be in good health and aloof, as opposed to trying to eat you to ward off malnutrition. These girls and boys are trying to show who is top dog in Shimla.

Railways

In the end we selected a Great Rail Journey that took in Delhi, Shimla, Agra and Jaipur. After arriving in Delhi on an overnight flight we were taken to a hotel in Delhi and threatened with our lives if we were to even think about drinking the local water. And ice was considered a killer of westerners far more threatening than Al Qaeda. We were then served ice in a jug of local water, which I shied away from as if it were plutonium. "Give me lager!" I demanded (nicely), it is by far the safest drink in India.

In the evening, after discussing the possibility of diarrhoea and being stuck on a train, with every member of the tour, I decided to fill my body with curry. Many of the others chose Irish stew, much to their later regret.

It was a joy to visit Delhi station early the next day. Entire families seemed to live on the platforms, eating, sleeping and, er yes, everything else. And how friendly they were too. Clearly living on a station you had to be pretty poor, but they smiled at us, showed no obvious resentment and went about their business, which could be quite horrible.

We took the Shatabdi Express to Kalka, our first taste of Indian Railways.



Family platform at Delhi station.

Pretty much everything can be done railside. I have not included 'everything' for the sake of taste and decency.

On-train snack, Marie biscuits, not seen in the UK since the 60s.

Now this was intriguing; it's the on-train magazine. It had a story designed to show the commitment of railway workers. This was the story of Ramu, who found a track fault that could have caused hundreds of deaths if the train were not stopped. Unfortunately it was the day of his daughter's wedding and of course in trying to stop the train he got bitten by a snake, which meant he missed his daughter's nuptials. Though he received a medal from the railway he was cast out from his family because he could never tell them why he didn't turn up to the wedding... Why not Indian Railways?! That 's ridiculous!!

Toy Train

In Kalka we changed to the sort of train you normally find on a fairground to get to Shimla. Actually called the 'Toy Train', it was a delightful thing, but not if you had to spend four hours on it. The line had been built by the British after Shimla had been made the summer capital of the Raj. A bit like making Thurso the capital of the UK when it gets a bit humid in London, and making everyone travel there by Hornby.
Triple bridge

Light at the end of the tunnel.


Do what the elephant says.

You'll get a shock if you try to complain here.

Sort of van train

Shimla

The summer capital of the Raj was incredibly British. There was mock Tudor all over the show, as well as a neo-Gothic church. The weather was bearable too, a bit like Snowdonia in the summer (we were in Shimla in October) and the hotel, the Oberoi Cecil, an absolute charmer, though they made the piano player play with a broken arm.


Real monkey, warding off dehydration.

Monkey god, looking over Shimla.

Foothills of the Himalayas

Viceroy's palace.

Neo-Gothic church, Shimla

Mock-Tudor town hall, Shimla

Shimla sky

I am the egg man.

Controversial issue in India

Black Forest Gateau! No steak and chips though.




Broadcasting corporation mascot.

Hindustan, which used to be a Morris Oxford.

Driving in India

It is difficult to describe the utter chaos that is the roads of India. There are no rules, none that anybody obeys anyway. If you were to do some of the things they do in the UK you would literally be considered to be attempting to take your own life and those of a number of other people too.

It is clear that there is a 90 degrees bend here: an ideal overtaking situation, according to the Indian Highway Code. 
Life's a gas, unless you run into this chap, which seems all too likely.

Four up!

"If I kill us both, at least you've got the portable stairway to heaven."

Taking out the wife and mother-in-law.

Tour de France in India, the 'freight event'.

If you drive in these conditions, you need a sleep...

Our coach did a three-point turn on a main road. At no point did the traffic going either way stop.

Rubbish


This was an aspect of India that had never been mentioned to me. I have never seen so much rubbish, and I lived through the UK's 'Winter of Discontent'. The Indian government is determined to do something about this with a big 'clear up' and the commencement of refuse collection.

But this is not as simple as it seems. If you took away the rubbish from some villages, there wouldn't be any village left. Many people live off the mountains of junk, sifting through it, finding things they can barter or sell. Some of it entirely innocent, and some not, like the refilling of mineral-water bottles with tap or other water, a killer for some people.





"It might be rubbish, but it's my rubbish."

Taj

Of course, if you're going to India, it's compulsory to visit the Taj Mahal. It was ok. I took a few photos from angles you don't usually see.



 
 



Unusual sights and signs







Hairy bike

"Press 1 if you already have an elephant, 2 if your elephant needs development..."

A hotel. Didn't get too near as all the rubbish in the lake would show up in the photo.

"Fully air-conditioned."



Diwali bus 

Beautiful Diwali  decoration made of flowers
Do go
You must go to India. It is truly fascinating. And the people are friendly or just leave you alone. I'd also recommend a tour like the Great Rail Journeys one I took. Some may be a little sniffy at that but I learnt so much from our Indian guides that I never would have picked up if I'd have attempted this alone.




Friday, 2 January 2015

The Land of the Free! (if you watch what you say...)

A road trip from Tennessee to California

Some Limey cultural observations from a trip across the US

Guns, freedom of speech, kitsch patriotism, Jeremy Clarkson and placeholder men
 
My daughter, wife and I recently took a road trip across the US, from Tennessee's Smokey Mountains to San Diego, via Nashville. Memphis, Dallas, Fort Worth and the Big Bend National Park. It is a beautiful country, there can be no denial of that. And the great thing about the US is that, with some exceptions like taxi drivers and other people who really need to do so, they can speak English (to a fashion) so you can find out what people think.
 
So, apart from having a holiday, I made it my business to pry into thoughts of those that make up the world's most powerful nation.

Guns and Memphis


There are guns everywhere. There are signs about leaving your guns at at home, signs about those who would make you leave your gun at home and signs linking guns with religion, freedom and probably butter and dolphins too.
 
It's intriguing for us Limeys as we don't live with guns. Our police, apart from specialist units, don't have them. And if you want one you're generally considered a bit odd. But I'm not crass enough to think: "They just shouldn't have them," although I do think they just shouldn't have them.
 
I remember years ago thinking that the Orange people of Northern Ireland could just stop marching through contentious areas but it was only when I went to Belfast for work that I realised how ingrained, on both sides, many traditions are. Though everyone can see how much misery these marches cause, it is difficult to see how you could stop them, it seems to be part of the DNA of some societies.
 
We met a young couple in Memphis's Benihana, the Japanese chain restaurant where each table has a chef who throws your food around and then cooks it in front of you. You share your table with other people, which can be brilliant or terrible. In this case, it was pretty good. We had that lovely moment us Brits love on shared tables when we're asked for our order and the table cries out: "Where are you guys from?!" It turned out our nearest companions, let's call them Marty and Anneke, were a recruitment consultant and a private investigator respectively. After a few pleasantries about jet lag and The Beatles the subject turned to guns (only because I asked). It turned out that Marty, recruitment consultant, had three. Anneke PI, whose specialism was using virtually any means at her disposal to find evidence that would help defend violent criminals, had none. Zero.
 
Marty actually had three guns. One for hunting, one for target practice and God only knows what the other one was for, murdering clients probably. What Marty didn't have though was a licence to carry a gun around with him in his pocket or wherever on his person.
 
"My dad has one of those," he said. "He got his car radio stolen a few months back. He doesn't want that to to happen again."
 
The car Marty's dad really wanted. Actually an exhibit in the Country Music Hall of Fame, Nashville
Anneke rolled her eyes at this. "He wants me to have a gun but our boss won't allow it. Our clients are a bit different to Marty's. They would just take the gun from me and shoot me with it. Or shoot someone else."
 
We explained the general UK (non-UKIP) view on guns to Marty but he just smiled. "It's our lives," he said. "It's just what we do." I asked about the stolen car radio and how a gun helped protect the car radio when Dad wasn't near the car: "It just makes him feel better," said Marty. "Do you know Jeremy Clarkson?"
 
I came away from there thinking that these people are delightful, but I'd have to put the guns in a mental box and ignore them. I'm sure I'd even like Marty's dad, but I would give his car a wide berth.
 

Kitsch patriotism and placeholder men

Sunset over the Big Bend National Park
One of the great things you can do in the US is visit its National Parks. They are managed by park rangers passionate about their work and environment. And the parks are extraordinarily beautiful. Texas' Big Bend Park on the Mexican border is a great example; it comprises desert, mountain, the Rio Grande, mountain lions and pig-like creatures called javelinas.
 
The border between Mexico and the USA is the Rio Grande. In some places it's little more than a ditch and in others it really is quite grand. I questioned the park rangers about illegal immigration; we had been stopped several times by border police and asked to prove we were US citizens, which was hard. We were generally allowed to carry on unmolested, apart from the one time that a helpful border guard decided to give me tourist advice on a place we weren't going to. When I got back in the car Mrs E told me that his colleague had leant into the car saying to her: "Keep away from all those places he told your husband about, they're all shit."

Bob, a delightfully informative park ranger, doing his 'thang'
Anyway, back to the point. I wanted to know why Mexicans didn't just walk across the Rio Grande's little bits. the ranger told me that there was so much desert on the Mexican side that it was difficult to get to the narrow bits of the Rio Grande. And even if they did, there was the Big Bend Park on the US side, which was primarily desert too so it was a great natural barrier. And anyone with a massive Mexican hat on would stick out like a sore thumb across the arid plains. Or die of thirst.

That cliff is Mexico. I touched it so technically I've been there
We took a trip on the Rio Grande. We went on a raft guided by, for the sake of anonymity, Rita. Rita was an extraordinary woman; slight in build yet able to direct the raft over and around the most rugged parts of the Rio Grande. She was also a paradox of opinions. And like many Americans we met she was glad to share some opinions with us she couldn't possibly discuss with her fellow citizens. Obviously immensely proud of her Texan roots, she was at the same time fed up with the way that gay people were treated in Texas, and with what she termed 'kitsch patriotism' across the US. We had some idea of this ourselves. It was not possible to go to many public events without having to go through the national anthem, a speech about the nation and then onto recognising anyone in the forces in the audience.
 
Just one flag
Now I value what the forces do as much as anyone else; I come from a military family, as does my wife, and I joined the Territorial Army, albeit for a short while, during the 80s. But there comes a point where too many flags, too many anthems and too many speeches wander into misplaced nationalism. America has a lot to be proud of but in the hands of lunatic nationalists who will accuse anyone without stars and stripes underwear of being a communist, being openly proud of your nation can be less attractive to many. This has happened in the UK where misuse of the union flag and cross of St George by right-wing organisations means that showing these flags now is seen by some as demonstrating right-wing lunacy, rather than appreciating being British.  I could see that some Americans clearly thought this as well but were too worried for their jobs and friends' and families' opinions to say so.

An interesting part of the trip was lunch. Rita and a colleague who was guiding another raft down the river set up a lovely picnic for us. The 'crew' of the other raft were some American college boys who were clearly more interested in my daughter's thoughts on the world than mine. However, they did manage to ask me if I ever manage to "meet up with Jeremy Clarkson in London."

A heron-type bird looking for fish in the Rio Grande
We asked Rita about guns and she was concerned about how many people had them: the unstable, the drunks and those who don't guard them properly.  But she recognised that the subject was pretty much untouchable. And when we discussed living in the outback, as she did, she said that she didn't mind the snakes so much as she was able to pick them off with her shotgun.

Rita also took it upon herself to give some advice to my 17-year old daughter, who had recently broken up with her boyfriend, in a fairly emotional way. "Girl's gotta get herself a placeholder man. That means she gets to be kept warm at night, if you know what I mean honey, and she don't shed a tear when he's gawn." Judging by the turmoil my daughter had put us through over the latest break up, I couldn't argue with Rita.

Politics and the Big Bend

Walking back to my cabin in the park one night I was astonished at the sky. It was so full of stars it was almost white. Instead of going back to the cabin I decided to sit out and look upwards for a while. The family was slightly worried (or hopeful) I'd be dragged off by mountain lions. One Trip Advisor reviewer had marked the park down to one blob as a member of his party had been bitten by one of these animals; this seemed unfair as sightings were very rare indeed. In fact some people might have marked it as five-blob experience for such up-close action.

Excellent cover for mountain lions, javelinas or Chas, potential serial killer
Anyway, I sat there gazing upwards and was disturbed by a rustling behind me. My first thought was about mountain lions. Then I calmed down as I remembered the cute javelinas. And then I saw the shape of a man and thought about serial killers. Every two people in five has a murder habit and a dissection dungeon the US if its film and book industry is anything to go by.
 
But I needn't have worried, it was Chas, a college lecturer. He had seen me wandering out to the view the stars and thought I might be an expert he could learn from. Poor him, I could just about tell where the big saucepan is at home, and all I know about the Milky Way is that you can (prior to the Advertising Standards Authority's intervention) eat it between meals.
 
Chas and I shared his binoculars, pointing out bits of sky we knew, which wasn't many for me. And of course I got him in to my favourite topics. Chas's big concern in the US was health. He was with Obama on what he was trying to do to sort out health care but Obamacare was complex and for many right-wing Americans the thought of a healthcare system that cares for everyone might as well be set up by Lenin. I told him what I'd seen on various forums, written by Americans about the UK's National Health Service (NHS), which many described as a feature of a "communist state".  I remarked to Chas that we'd be the only communist state whose head of state is there by birth. But then I had to admit to North Korea. Chas said that he felt as able to express his views at work on healthcare as he would had he lived in North Korea.

A dangerous job putting out the GIs' trash...
Chas was surprised firstly that I'd be interested in his fellow citizens' opinions and secondly that so many right wingers would even know about the UK's NHS. I told him that any interest from overseas was good for perspective on how good/useless we are in the UK. But I was annoyed at ignorant opinions. I described how, in a drive across Arizona and California a couple of years before, I had listened to a US forces broadcast where a US Army colonel who claimed he had been in Afghanistan had described all other 'allied' nations as "Only there to put out the GIs' trash." I could not believe what I was hearing. The UK watched, horrified day after day, month after month, at aeroplanes bringing back the coffins, draped in union flags, of members of our forces who were described as little more than 'trash-can emptiers' by a senior US officer who should know better.
 
I could tell that Chas was angry at this too. He said he appreciated how I must have felt hearing this. I said he needn't feel for me, I didn't know any of the dead people but could those responsible for these broadcasts imagine the reaction of UK forces' families to such idiotic and deceitful propaganda if they ever heard of it? Or was putting out the trash for GIs the single bravest job in Afghanistan?

San Diego to London

One of San Diego's biggest tourist attractions
In San Diego we decided to visit our old friend Benihana again. And we were not disappointed. We sat with a lovely Jewish couple, David and Sarah (for anonymity again). They were from a fairly strict religious background and had been set up with each other by their families. "Which was lucky," they said, "As we quite like each other."
 
They were interested in the whole British thing and were planning to go to London "Someday." Of course the subject invariably made its way around to Jeremy Clarkson. We asked how he had become so popular in the US. "It's because we made our own Top Gear show and it's crap," they said. "Clarkson says what he likes and people love that. The presenters here just are not allowed to do that or maybe couldn't do it anyway as we're not used to it."
 
So it seems that the answer to popularity is to seek a copycat and make sure it's bloody awful.
 
On a final note, Sarah asked us how we were getting home. We said by British Airways, on the direct flight. Her eyes lit up at this. She told us that there had long been a campaign in San Diego to get a London flight and when BA finally agreed to do this the whole city was delighted. I thought no more about this until we got to the airport the following day. San Diego airport is principally domestic, when our incoming, fairly common 777 landed to take us home, there was a frisson of excitement at the airport, which gave me a little bit of non-nationalistic pride.
 

Some other photos

How to sell sausages in the US

Inside the sausage machine, quite literally

Fairly unique garden ornament, on sale in American Airlines' Sky Mall magazine

Miraculous cure

Colman's, more than a match for this watery stuff

One of the USA's most unfortunately named ranches

This says to me: 'Privately run prisons'

'Amputated foot for demonstration purposes only'

Cowboy

Cowgirl

Elvis' microwave